In this region of Ukraine, the happy and unhappy history of Ukrainian Jews can be seen in these different towns. When you greet the violinists on the rooftops of Lvov, you will think of Scholem Aleikhem. Czernowitz, meanwhile, was home to many synagogues and was also the birthplace of Paul Celan. Synagogues are often reduced to walls or commemorative plaques. Like the remains of the sublime synagogues in Brody and Zolkiew. Memories, vestiges of memory, are also happy when thinking of Medzhibozh, the town of the Baal Shem Tov, and unhappy when meditating in front of the Memorial to the Victims of the Rovno Massacre.