Switzerland / French-Speaking Switzerland

Geneva

Quai de l’Ile. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

The city of banking and watchmaking… but not only. Geneva is a much more complex city, home to a great university and eminent thinkers for centuries, and it even published one of the first two comic strips in history.

Rhône. Photo de Jguideeurope 2024

It seems that the Jewish presence in Geneva dates from the 13th century, mainly around the  Place du Grand-Mézel in the old town. The Jews were expelled from the city in 1490 and forbidden to stay there until the 19th century.

Place du Grand-Mézel. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

The Grand-Mézel was the oldest closed Jewish quarter in Europe, established in 1428 (88 years before the Venice ghetto). The old town is situated on a small hill, with the shopping streets on one side and the university and cultural buildings on the other. Coming down from the Grand-Mézel, 200m away you will find the historic synagogue of Geneva.

Reestablished in 1852 by Alsatian Jews, the Jewish community of Geneva was offered a plot of land by the city to build a synagogue as a sign of tolerance toward non-Protestant minorities.

Beth Yaakov synagogue. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

Located at the Place de la Synagogue and combining eastern style with Polish characteristics, the  Beth Yaakov Synagogue was returned to its original colors in 1997: designed in 1857 by Jean-Henri Bachofen, it features a gray and pink-striped facade, four crenellated turrets crowned by domes, and a central dome topped with the Tablets of the Law. The interior (arches and dome) is predominantly light blue, while the stained-glass windows and paneling add to the vividness of the colors.

Place de Neuve. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

The University of Geneva was established by Jean Calvin in 1559. The urgent need to fill lecture halls in the 19th century unexpectedly benefited from the political upheavals in Eastern Europe. The very reactionary period of the Russian Empire forced many students to leave the country and find places at Western universities. This was especially motivating for women, who found free access to Geneva universities, a rare event at the time. Thus, Jews from the East, often from very modest conditions, made up more than half of the students in Geneva. Among them, Lina Stern, a world specialist in the brain and the first woman professor at the University of Geneva. But also Chaïm Weizmann, the future first president of Israel, who taught chemistry there and founded a publishing house. There he developed with other students the idea of what would become the Hebrew University of Jerusalem. As well as many Zionist, communist and Bundist figures.

University of Geneva. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

In the spirit of reconciling studies and manual labour, Aron Syngalowski established in 1943 in Geneva the provisional headquarters of the ORT (Organisation – Reconstruction – Labour), founded in 1880 in Russia to help needy Jews. This world headquarters remained in Switzerland until 1980.

The Heikhal Haness Synagogue , serving the Sephardic Jewish community, was built in 1970. This marble construction was needed in answer to changes in Geneva’s community, as Mediterranean Jews have now become the majority.

Outside view of the synagogue building in Geneva
GIL synagogue. Photo by Romano1246 – Wikipedia

The Liberal Jewish Community of Geneva – GIL created by Rabbi François Garaï in 1970, gathers today about a third of Geneva’s Jews. It was the first synagogue in the French speaking world to enable girls to read the Torah during their bat-mitsvah.

Place de Longemalle. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

City known over the world for its diplomatic summits, Geneva inspired many writers, among them Romain Gary and Albert Cohen, diplomats themselves. A wonderful tribute to the city is shared in Albert Cohen’s novel Mangeclous when the Solal cousins stroll around the sights and parks and turn the UN upside down.

Pierre Richard, Bernard Blier and other actors of the Movie Mangeclous based on Albert Cohen's book
Moshe Mizrahi’s movie Mangeclous (1988), adapting Albert Cohen’s book

Albert Cohen arrives in Geneva to pursue his studies. He became a Swiss citizen and was admitted to the Geneva bar. Following his elaboration of the passport for displaced persons, he will return to the city in 1947 to head the Protection Division of the IRO. Geneva will be the city where Cohen’s work confronts generations and discomforts between them. First of all, between him and his mother, who, like his character Solal, is ashamed of her origins and the characters who represent her too “loudly”. He will cry for these moments of shame in The Book of My Mother and will mock his own attitude in Mangeclous, the main character of this novel and who bears the same name causing a great commotion in the city and the highest UN authorities, by setting himself up as an emissary of the creation of the State of Israel.

The Flowered watch. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

The Community Center houses the Jewish main library, rich in several high quality scientific and artistic collections, as well as the Jardin Rose (Rose Garden) and a kosher restaurant. The Jewish Community Center also organizes many cultural events.

Rhône. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

The Jewish population in 1900 consisted of 1100 people. In 2024, estimates suggest that there will be 6000.

Quai du Mont Blanc. Photo by Jguideeurope 2024

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